Dye, Stain Or Varnish

[oldgeeza]

Last week I rescued a wooden kitchen table from a neighbour. I have sanded the table back to bare wood, I initially started with 80 Grit, (Tough going), switched to 60 Grit, eventually ended up using 40 Grit and then used 120 Grit to smooth the table top. I used the iron method to remove a few indentations (worked perfectly) although there are still a few imperfections in the wood. should I keep sanding until the imperfections have gone or would it be advisable to use a dark wood dye, stain or varnish to hide/cover the imperfections in the wood or a mixture of the above? Kindest regards in anticipation. oldgeeza

[Canary42]

Congratulations on persisting with the sanding - I tend to give up about ½-way.

It's really a personal choice where you go from here - and how bad the "imperfections" are - they could enhance an "antique" look.

If anything, I think I would go for the dark wood dye, but can you try it on a small patch on the underside before you take the plunge ?

[The Builder]

Yes, I agree it's a personal choice. There's no right or wrong way.
I assume this is a pine table. Hardwood is a different matter.

Again, this is personal, but I've never gone for staining or dyeing pine. Results can be perfectly Ok, but I think a little artificial.
Have a think about "Briwax". You can choose light/dark etc.
Wax gets into the cracks and crevices and gives a classic "pub table" look.

[derekpara]

If the ' imperfections' are scratches/gouges across the grain ( not parallel with it ) they would be very difficult to remove or hide.
I would say do the best you can and remember that as an old table these marks are part of its life and history. We all have the odd scar here and there.
As an amateur but fairly competent furniture restorer I agree with Builder's suggestion.
One method I use on furniture that might come into contact with hot cups, plates etc is to apply polyurethane varnish thinned with 50% white spirit, allowing a day or two between coats. This can be applied using a brush or, as I tend to do, with a lint free cloth - finishing in the direction of the grain. 4-5 coats should be ample and the finished result will be impervious to heat. It can also be followed by the excellent wax polish the Builder recommends.
Good luck. D

[derekpara]

An acknowledgement at least would be appreciated.

[oldgeeza]

Canary42, The Builder & derekpara,
thank you for replying. I like the idea of combining a dark wood dye with a Briwax finish, if that's possible. Failing that, a combination of wood dye with a clear polyurethane varnish coating sounds like a good alternative if the dye/Briwax method isn't successful, of course I will test both methods on the underside of the table first. Thank you all for your invaluable advice. Regards oldgeeza

[1ozzy]

I would sand down to at least a 320 ,if not a 480 grit before applying a finish.
But that's me being pedantic

[Ceyuish]

I also love to work with wood and restore wood products. I have been working in wood for quite some time now, I enjoy this hobby, but recently my router bits broke. Which one to choose a new one?

[Khandro]

Before staining you should wash the top with warm water & let it dry, this will 'raise the grain' which should then be sanded off with the fine sandpaper & the process done again - up to three times depending on the wood.

[Khandro]

I should have said 'dampen' not wash, no need to soak it.
If it was a hard wood the tool to remove the small imperfections would be scraper, with softwood (pine) you can only really sand the spot, as you have been doing.