how are breakers formed

deej70 | 22:03 Thu 12th Jan 2006 | Science

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mrbatfink

are you on about circuit breakers?

Peter Pedant

No I think you are on about breaking waves.

Expln 1. The energy at the top outstrips the energy further down and it topples over itself.

Expln 2 waves comes in two forms ! One is a deep sea wave whose speed doesnt depend on the depth.

A shallow water wave speed does depend on the depth and is slower as it gets shallower.

So a wave when it apporaches a beach tends to bunch up as it goes up the beach as the front is travelling slower than the back. And then it falls over.

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