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How To Make A Joint

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ukanonymous | 13:51 Tue 15th Dec 2020 | Home & Garden
34 Answers
Is this joint better than a butt joint? I know it isn't text book i was just playing around hehe. Also when I screw in the screws do I have to drill a hole first or just screw them straight in?
http://imgur.com/gallery/wR3fK4h
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I am struggling to get the joints snug. Are there any techniques to do this as there are gaps in my joint and glue wouldmt do anything. Its not looking great so far anyway hehe I might have to start again
I think that you need to master cutting right angles.
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O am struggling to make the joints snug. Is there a neck to this? Because using glue won't even do anything while like this. Its so uneven and not fully incomtact. Is it just practice?
If your sawing is inaccurate you will never get a 'snug' fit. Practice and careful marking out with try-square, marking knife and marking gauge will help. Also, keep your head directly over the tenon saw and remember to cut just inside the mark lines.
You could dispense with screws and use dowel rod (2-pcs) inserted into glue lined holes. This would make quite a strong joint. Good luck.
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Ok thank you I qas cutting on the line. I guess it makes sense what you said hehe ;)
Yep, it's in the cutting.
Even in unplaned timber, one piece should fit snugly into the other.

When you screw, don't rely on just one screw in the middle.
Put 2 in, each about 10 or 15mm from the edge.
If you use carpenter's polyurethane glue, that glue will expand as it sets, and help fill in any sloppy cutting.
Also... I would use 75mm long screws in that.
What you have achieved is a rebate joint rather than any of the types of joint I suggested earlier. By cutting the end of the upright in the same way as the end of the horizontal piece you could convert it into a corner halving joint as shown here (number 3):
http://www.mr-dt.com/manufacturing/woodjoints.htm
This joint can be clamped after gluing so that the square flat area between the pieces is squeezed tight
Get a mitre block/box to guide a handsaw. Besides accurate angled cuts it will help with 90⁰ cuts.

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Ok I will try again tonorrow and try be more precise:) its fun just darn annoying when they don't turn out great.
This isn't for your shelving is it?
Old saying that's worth remembering..." Measure twice cut once"...that's all.
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After a bit more messing around I worked out that it doest have to be cur accurate and then can skim or a bit of wood with chisels. I also qas brave enough to use the circular saw so there as less work and more accuracy yay. I have to do some computer stuff now though boo
For me, removing excess wood (ideally a minimal amount) with a chisel is perfectly normal. You can gradually trim the wood to achieve a neat and tidy joint; you can't add any wood if you've inadvertently taken too much off!

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