Best Hardwood For Front Door?

[abstibus]

Can anyone suggest which wood I should go for? I am not keen on mahogany as it's too dark, but I have been told that oak would not be suitable. I intend to have the entire unit, with side glass panels and a fanlight, replaced.
Should I go for painted wood? The door is west-facing and takes the brunt of the high wind and gales here.
The joiner is coming in the morning, and I would like some ideas before he comes.
Many thanks

[The Builder]

The first question is for you, anne. What's your preference? Natural wood or paint?

There dozens of hardwoods available. Just to give you an idea.........

http://www.devonhardwoods.ltd.uk/timber_southwest_devon_quality.html

If you'd prefer a paint finish, then you won't need hardwood at all. A hard softwood such as hemlock, or even pressure-treated deal whitewood will be fine.

Being West facing, I wouldn't go for regular paint unless it's going to be applied by someone with experience.
I would always go for coloured stains. Several bright colours available....

http://www.promain.co.uk/specsheets/solignum%20brochure%202005%20v2.pdf

Having the joiner around to measure up etc, is the last consideration. You need to work out what you would like to see.
(Also, don't let the joiner tell you only what HE would prefer to use.)

[abstibus]

Hi, builder
I hoped you would see this!!!
Do you think Iroko would be good? Lets say, hypothetically, that I like a vivid red or a dark green finish. What would you recommend in the Solignim range?

Can I ask you another? Would it be sensible to go for a three bolt security? The joiner has his own workshop and will make the door if needed, or could I go for a supplied door and have it modified?
That makes three questions, so I owe you quite a few drinks!

[The Builder]

Hi Anne........ I think, from your original Q that you're having a complete entrance frame including sidelights etc.
Is that right?

I usually find that it is quite a bit cheaper to buy "off the shelf" and alter to fit.
Having the whole thing purpose made is usually the last resort, either because the opening is a strange size, or that you can't find one you like.

Iroko is an excellent choice.... also Idigbo. Plenty of joiners are using these as an alternative to oak. They're both about the same price, but cheaper than oak.

Have a look at a few here...........

http://www.eoburton.com/sawn-timber.html?p=1

3 or 5 bolt security is well worth it. It also has the advantage of holding the door in 3 separate places. This is often essential in stopping a door from warping. One lock in the middle can't do this. Doors inevitably bend away from the frame at top and bottom.

Solignum "Ensign Red", or "Sherwood Green"are classy colours. More subtle than paint finishes, which can be a bit gaudy.

[abstibus]

Once again, builder, thank you.
Are you OK to answer a few more queries for me?
I plan to have the whole thing renewed. It's a Victorian house on the North Atlantic coast, so you can imagine the weather conditions.
My idea was to have the fanlight and side panels double glazed, so they probably couldn't be 'off the shelf'.
If I went for Iroko, what finish would be needed to ensure the wood stays good (can't think of another word), although I love the idea of the Ensign green. Would staining be essential?
Many thanks for your patient advice.

[The Builder]

Anne, certainly not essential to stain. With good hardwoods, it's possible to not treat them at all. Though, eventually, the timber will take on a silvery-grey colour under the influence of ultra violet. I don't think that would be the appearance you're after.

Alternatives to stain.................. Oil, particularly Teak oil. This would have to be repeated much more often than stain though. Also, it would give no UV protection.

Probably the simplest, most effective finish would be a clear (translucent) exterior finish from Sikkens ................ Cetol Filter 7................
This gives excellent UV protection............

http://sikkens.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/sikkens_cetol_filter_7_plus.jsp

If you have the frame made, ask for 24mm rebates for glazing. This will allow 24mm Double Glazed units to be fitted. Also ask for "Low E" glass (low emissivity) for best insulation.

[The Builder]

...about the rebates .............. not explained very well. For 24mm units, the rebate will be more like 40mm to allow for the glazing beads (strips of timber that hold the glass in)

[abstibus]

Builder
You are a treasure. Now I feel that I know what to do when the joiner comes in the morning. The depth of my knowledge may confound him somewhat - a woman who knows what she's talking about!!!
I'm now going to make notes and cite what you have said - I feel much more confident now.
Thanks so much.
Shall I let you know how I get on?

[The Builder]

Yayyyyyy a treasure ;o)

Yes, please keep us informed Anne :o)))

[heathfield]

Can I add a P.S? For anyone painting or otherwise sealing the surface of a new exterior door, Paint or seal the top and bottom edges before fitting the door. This will go toward preventing some of the warping that Builder mentions, by stopping any moisture from getting into the otherwise bare wood.

[abstibus]

Hello again, builder and heathfield.
My last post disappeared into the ether, so if it pops up later, please forgive.

I have met with the joiner, who has his own workshop and team, is very pleasant and comes highly recommended.

I am now considering replacing the inner section of the porch. The door is oanelled glass which is quite old and would be difficult to replace if it broke. There is also a fanlight and the sides are glazed from halfway up. (I do wish people would stop rapping it and putting their noses against it if I don't magically pop up immediately when they arrive. There is a doorbell... Grrrr.).
Until now, the inner door and surround have been painted but this is a bit of a pain. I would like something that echoes the look/tone of the outer and needs little maintenance. I would like to keep the panelled look.
What kind of wood and finish would you recommend for the inner section? I have gone for Iroko with Sikkens in Light Oak for the outer door, following your excellent suggestions.
Many thanks
a-m

[Old_Geezer]

Just my opinion but I think you may be overanalyzing the options. For style I think you may find it easier to look at what is available rather than decide on a style and then find it difficult to find. I'm sure, if you still want the light in the hall, there will be glass dominant styles similar to what you already have, or if you feel you don't need the light for the hall, more solid panel wood styles. Were I considering the job I think that, since you have opted for a medium oak colour front door side, it might be nice to match it on the inner door also. But you may prefer a contrast.

[abstibus]

OG
The joiner will do the whole job - taking out the front section and replacing it with the new. This is why I would like him to do the rest.
I suppose my only questions are 'What kind of wood and what finish would match the Iroko?'
Thanks for your answer!
a-m

[abstibus]

Hello, The Buider
I have just seen that you are around and wanted to thank you for the advice you gave me about the door.
I followed it to the letter and added a few extras - a Yale viewer was one of them.
It might sound odd for people to compliment a door and surround, but they do!!
Many thanks for your time and expertise. I really appreciate it.
a-m

[The Builder]

That's very good news about the door & frame, Astibus. I'm so glad it's all worked out well.

Even better to receive such a kind commendation as well. Thank you for that. Always glad to help :o)