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roof leak in new loft conversion

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what..the? | 23:38 Sun 11th Sep 2011 | Home & Garden
13 Answers
The loft is currently being converted along with a re-roof. The wood for the new roof is on and the felt applied. The felt is very fine fabric on the rafters it is white creme coloured not like the thick black stuff I would expect there appears to be wet patches on the floor in areas. Admittedly the slate it only partly on and the weather has been bad, but should rain really be getting in already. Is it because of the felt being used or this this normal felt these days? Also would this water be damaging the new floor boards there are wet patches of all different sizes.

http://www.flickr.com...677193/in/photostream

Also on one gable end I can see a gap between the slope of the gable and the roof line is this supposed to be like that? will they put something in there?

http://www.flickr.com...242926/in/photostream

Thanks in advance
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If the slates aren't on yet, the rain is bound to be getting through - that white stuff looks more like insulation to me than roofing felt. Aren't your contractors putting a tarpaulin over the roof before the slates go on, to keep the rain out?
they use breathable felt these days not like the old stuff, its also the tiles/slates that keep the water out not the felt, a common misconception. Also the water shouldnt cause any damage short term, they build houses in the rain !!
Fascia boards will cover the gap

http://www.google.co....,r:10,s:0&tx=95&ty=74
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What...the? It may have escaped your notice but you dont actually have a roof yet to leak!!
1.This is the material used to waterproof your roof:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyvek

2. Yes, they will.

The water ingress is because the the roof is not completely water-tight. The structure and materials will be able to cope with a reasonable amount of water, but as trim says protect the floor as excess water can compromise the chipboard floor sheets.
You Contractor needs to get a wiggle on with making the buildling water-tight, though.
Looks like you have moisture resistant chipboard, Whatters. It'll take quite a bit of that.......... for a while.
Actually, with Tyvek, it is quite possible to be completely watertight without the roof covering. (Not recommended for more than a few weeks though.) I can see from the patches on the floor what's happening. High winds are blowing the "laps" up and letting the rain blow in . Laps are where the higher course of felt covers the one underneath for 3 or 4 inches.
If it were intended to be left for a while, they could easily be tacked down.

As the others have already said, that verge detail at the gable will be finished off. Looks like a good job so far :o)))
Question Author
thanks so much everyone.....I can relax now, your so kind, sorry I am so uptight and everything worries me.
i get the feeling your expecting problems or going to be ripped off...not all builders are like that, been watching to many rogue traders programmes ??
Question Author
lol no I'm just like that, glass is half empty, that's me. I hate that part of me, but it has its advantages I don't get ripped off often or at all because I nit pick everything.
Top of the gable stonework might be foamed .. or packed with insulative material. Some used to mortar up and stuff glassfibre into the gaps. The top is non-structural .. but it should be sealed.
Rain blowing through the laps of the Tyvek, as has been said by my mate TB. Tyvek is very strong .. you can stand on it. It is (like old type roofing felt) really a breathable draught membrane. It is not intended to stop water (or permanently be wet)
Just make sure all that studwork is strong enough .. pull it about a bit to see. You can't fix it when all the boards are on and plastered! Make sure sockets are correct when electrician has been about!
Question Author
Great thanks. Yes I have drawn all the plugs sockets I what on the plans including quite a few 3/4 height ones for wall mounted tvs. but I don't know what height to ask to put these because surly the tv bracket goes in the middle of your proposed tv location so the one power socket and one aerial socket should go below/above/side of a bracket of unknown size??????
Probably best to leave poking through from a cavity .. Electr. will understand these are to be taped for now. Can fix cavity boxes later I would think.
Either that, or spur a cable from a nearby socket and fix the same way.

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