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THE BRICKY - BREEZE BLOCKS LAID FLAT

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madonna-fan | 21:58 Wed 30th May 2012 | How it Works
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Does anyone know if it is possible to use this item to lay breeze blocks flat - as if you were builing a retaining wall, i am getting contradictory information,
Many Thanks in advance.
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For a low wall, yes. Anything higher than waste height will probably contravene your local building code. Saying that, I have seen the odd one on its side in a 2m high wall/fence for decoration. I am sure your friendly local council will advice you once they know your requirements.
The strength comes from using them the proper way. For additional strength they can be filled with reinforcing and concrete.
In what situation are you intending to use them?
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for a retaining wall - at the end of my garden.
Ah............. the wonderful world of terminology ;o)))

You would use ordinary dense concrete blocks. Roughly speaking, in that situation you need the weight of dense concrete.

Breeze blocks were used many years ago, making use of lightweight ash for the aggregate (cinder blocks). Power station ash and other industrial by-products are still used to produce what we now know as lightweight insulation blocks (Celcon,Thermalite, Durox etc).

Certainly lay them "on their flat" as it's known. It's done all the time.
Retaining walls often have to be designed. In your case though, you could probably follow a simple "rule of thumb".............

.......... the height of the wall should be no more than 4 times the thickness at any point............

What height do you need?
as the builder says you need dense concrete blocks for a retaining wall and laying them flat is standard practice for such application.......they do two types of the tool you are enquiring about...."The Bricky" and "The Bricky Pro"......the later being the best option as its width is adjustable to compensate for various materials and applications......I have never used them so can't comment on their suitability but here is the link for your info.......


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oh................ so that's what it is :o(
No wonder I was a tad confused by the question title. Well spotted Marden. Good job you're here.

I've never used one either, but it looks a good idea for DIY use, especially if the wall is going to be "fair-faced"........ ie left un-rendered (not plastered)
seen it used on one one of the shopping channels, looks the dogs danglys..the only problem is its demonstrated by a pro brickie..
Yes this method is good as long as the wall is not holding back a road or structural area but for retaining up to 1200 mm of garden or bank /soil or for a raised patio it will be fine.If its for soil /garden retaining ensure that weep holes are left through the wall 150mm approx above lower ground level . 25/50 mm plastic pipe every 750 mm along the wall, smaller intervals if there is always lots of suface water above the wall.
I forgot to say the blocks should be dense concrete blocks if left fair faced but if rendered you could use lightweight trench blocks or a type with a newton value of more than 7.5 newtons .
you should also insure a concrete footing/foundation is under the wall min depth of 500mm min width 500mm. the more its holding back the bigger the footing. all you need to lay them is a trowel,tape lines and club hammer and bolster. If space allows then prop up a piece of 4x2 each end plum in the line you want the wall and if the footing is level mark up the wood at 115mm intervals and then put the line between the timber 'profiles' and follow it . keep the snots off the back as you go (mortar that pushes out) after a few course you will work out how much muck to use, Then follow the rule that one goes on top of two, and put the bottom of the brick/block to the top of the brick/block and the top of the brick/ block to the line. and if you want it to be fair faced then rub the full joints with a bit of garden hose .. Simples.

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