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FAO : 'The Builder' or A Builder
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New extension 7m x 1.8m. Current house built in imperials. 10bc = 850mm.
What is difference in construction costs between (sourcing and) building in either,
a) matching imperials, b) matching metric (and adjusting joints to match courses) or c) blockwork and render ?
What is difference in construction costs between (sourcing and) building in either,
a) matching imperials, b) matching metric (and adjusting joints to match courses) or c) blockwork and render ?
Answers
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Hi Jack
a) matching Imperials ............ best "conventional" solution. Labour cost about the same, but reclaimed bricks are quite a bit more expensive than new. Also, Imperial brick courses won't "line up" with internal blockwork (for wall ties). Timber frame internally would have to be used. Better job, but, again, more expensive.
b) Metric .. thickened beds would look awful alongside regular bedded Imperials. NOT a good look!
c) Again, "conventional" solution, and probably the cheapest. Bit of a faff achieving current U-values though (insulation standard).
d) ........ my preferred way of building extensions now ........ timber frame. Simple frame, single skin, finished in wire (Expamet) and render. (Draining cavity behind the render for damp proofing purposes....... don't worry about the technicalities!)
With modern types of insulation, U-values similar to Swedish and USA specs can easily be met. As you can imagine, this method is quick (fewer labour hours), but involves more expense on materials. The extra expense is easily compensated for by greatly increased insulation. Also minimal cracking, drying out etc.
To try and answer your Q .................. it will depend on the builder. Some of the "old school" would always go for brick, and probably "load" the price if it weren't their preferred method.
Anything involving timber frame should really involve builders who are a bit more go ahead and up to date.
That's probably enough for you to think about for now lol. Do you have any personal preferences?
a) matching Imperials ............ best "conventional" solution. Labour cost about the same, but reclaimed bricks are quite a bit more expensive than new. Also, Imperial brick courses won't "line up" with internal blockwork (for wall ties). Timber frame internally would have to be used. Better job, but, again, more expensive.
b) Metric .. thickened beds would look awful alongside regular bedded Imperials. NOT a good look!
c) Again, "conventional" solution, and probably the cheapest. Bit of a faff achieving current U-values though (insulation standard).
d) ........ my preferred way of building extensions now ........ timber frame. Simple frame, single skin, finished in wire (Expamet) and render. (Draining cavity behind the render for damp proofing purposes....... don't worry about the technicalities!)
With modern types of insulation, U-values similar to Swedish and USA specs can easily be met. As you can imagine, this method is quick (fewer labour hours), but involves more expense on materials. The extra expense is easily compensated for by greatly increased insulation. Also minimal cracking, drying out etc.
To try and answer your Q .................. it will depend on the builder. Some of the "old school" would always go for brick, and probably "load" the price if it weren't their preferred method.
Anything involving timber frame should really involve builders who are a bit more go ahead and up to date.
That's probably enough for you to think about for now lol. Do you have any personal preferences?
I'm working on the above project for client (A), having already completed project for his son-in-law (B).
After having had conversation with both A + B as to brickwork v render with decision being made for render option, anally-retentive B (38 e-mails since Tuesday !!) is now searching for matching imperials to do away with render option !
I have yet to finish one lot of revisions before I end up with more...........:o(
I've drawn the 'blockwork' option and the Planning Application is good to go, however, I really don't want to have to draw up a 'brickwork' scheme and then have to faff about converting and swapping materials, etc. to take account of the whims of B.
I think the driving factor here is the budget and hope to communicate to my client which will be the best 'cost-wise'.
Is option D suitable for 2-storey where First Floor will part-form Bathroom and Bedroom and where the roof is to be concrete-tiled bonnet-hip ?
If so can you point me in the right direction on 'tinterweb ?
Thanks for your invaluable assistance. :o)
After having had conversation with both A + B as to brickwork v render with decision being made for render option, anally-retentive B (38 e-mails since Tuesday !!) is now searching for matching imperials to do away with render option !
I have yet to finish one lot of revisions before I end up with more...........:o(
I've drawn the 'blockwork' option and the Planning Application is good to go, however, I really don't want to have to draw up a 'brickwork' scheme and then have to faff about converting and swapping materials, etc. to take account of the whims of B.
I think the driving factor here is the budget and hope to communicate to my client which will be the best 'cost-wise'.
Is option D suitable for 2-storey where First Floor will part-form Bathroom and Bedroom and where the roof is to be concrete-tiled bonnet-hip ?
If so can you point me in the right direction on 'tinterweb ?
Thanks for your invaluable assistance. :o)
oo-er ..... Jack. I didn't know you were "in the business", as it were. I hope I didn't come across as patronising :o(
You have my sympathies. I think I know where you're coming from. lol
Anyway, 2-storey, no problem. Just the usual lateral restraint at 1st floor level. I did this at my last house. open stairwell with study under and bathroom over. The roof was all Redland Hardrow tiles ............. so I had to match them. Stupidly heavy things, but normal rafter sizing etc applied. At the top of the front wall (plate level), I usually bolt a couple of 6x2s together to act as head plate / eaves beam.
It's a great way to work. No heavy masonry, and very little wet trades. Also, it's much easier to change your mind later, about position of openings etc.
I haven't looked on the net, but, do you have a disposable e-mail that I can send something to?
Or, do we have any mutual FB friends, so that I can get you that way?
If B is considering reclaimed brick matching........... unless he fiddles around with the coursing, he might have to use timber frame internally anyway.
You have my sympathies. I think I know where you're coming from. lol
Anyway, 2-storey, no problem. Just the usual lateral restraint at 1st floor level. I did this at my last house. open stairwell with study under and bathroom over. The roof was all Redland Hardrow tiles ............. so I had to match them. Stupidly heavy things, but normal rafter sizing etc applied. At the top of the front wall (plate level), I usually bolt a couple of 6x2s together to act as head plate / eaves beam.
It's a great way to work. No heavy masonry, and very little wet trades. Also, it's much easier to change your mind later, about position of openings etc.
I haven't looked on the net, but, do you have a disposable e-mail that I can send something to?
Or, do we have any mutual FB friends, so that I can get you that way?
If B is considering reclaimed brick matching........... unless he fiddles around with the coursing, he might have to use timber frame internally anyway.
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