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Help with Problem - inlet distance on shower unit

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DIYTRIER | 19:12 Wed 08th Dec 2010 | DIY
6 Answers
I've just bought a Triton shower and the centres for inlet are 20mm from the tiled surface.

Unfortunately, the centres for my elbow joint are 30mm - so I'm 10mm out. The distance is far too great to make a good marriage of the pipework.

This is a replacement unit - and I have already re-tiled the shower so I don't want to do anything radical such as chop out the pipework.

I have taken a look at the Triton 'instatrim backplate' wich needs connecting using a straight coupler and don't think that will work either - unless someone can tell me otherwise? It's also cumbersome?

The elbow coming out of the wall is a copper 'push-fit' onto plastic piping and I don't know how to disconnect that either - so I would sooner find another unit with a 30mm span from wall to inlet?

Does anybody have a solution, or alternatively know of a reliable product range that has a 30mm or adjustable inlet distance from the tiled surface.

Below are some pictures if I'm not explaining myself properly?
Look forward to hearing back - thanks for your help.
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Any chance of simply spacing the unit off the wall 10mm ........... easily done :o)
19:27 Wed 08th Dec 2010
Any chance of simply spacing the unit off the wall 10mm ........... easily done :o)
Question Author
Builder - I had thought of that - but thought iy would be a bit of a bodge - the baack of the unit would need to be enclosed? what material would you suggest if I did? Fret some white perspex to shape? what would you suggest as adhesive?

Triton do make a shower backplate - but I'm not sure that the dimensions on that will work? Think I('ll visit the plumber centre tomrrow.

Thanks for the comment - there has to be a
I see what you mean about fretting some perspex, or even 10mm white uPVC.
I was thinking more of the screws that fix it to the wall. 10mm spacers sleeved over the screws, then tightened up. Could look ok if you made the spacers from small bore chrome tube/stainless steel/uPVC. You'd also need some kind of bezel to fit around the openings in the tiles for the cable and cold feed.
Hi could you carefully dig around the ends of the pipes to reach the release collars on the existing (push fit elbows), then move on to other fittings as required, there is usually enough unit to cover any mods required into the tiles then mastic/silicon seal round the top and sides only twixt unit to tiles to prevent any water ingress, HTH Tez
TBH .. The correct way to fit it (and ensure no problems in future) is to remove a few tiles and replumb. Not as bad as it sounds.
Question Author
I'm going to go down 'The Builders ' route and sit it off the tiles. I've sourced a plastic guy who can cut the exact shape out of white perpex, polish the edges and provide the relevant screw holes and the holes for the pipework and cabling for £25.00 - so it's a no brainer!

Thanks for all your advice

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