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Fully Fitted Kitchen On A Budget

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Champagne | 08:25 Tue 11th Jun 2013 | DIY
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I am looking to get a new, fully integrated kitchen. I want to do this on a budget and have allowed myself £4k to get all the floor & wall units, floor tiles, wall tiles, move the loft hatch, fitting costs plus all new appliances. I’m starting to realise this is going to take some shopping around to get everything within my budget, but I’m still optimistic. The kitchen is only small (2.3m/2) and I have drawn up my own plans so I know what I need. Does anybody have any hot tips on where to buy cheap units? Or appliances at bargain prices? Or roughly how much an independent fitter would cost and how long it would take to fit? Etc.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. :-)

N.B. I don’t want to sacrifice quality for cost though.

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I just wanted to say 'ola' to Champers. I have absolultely nothing useful to add to this thread. I'm not allowed in the kitchen really :-/
09:59 Tue 11th Jun 2013
Wow!!

Now here's a blast from the past! Hello Champers! How are you? Where HAVE you been?

As for the kitchen...

We're doing ours up as well, and ours is huge and our budget's even tighter! As for hot tips? Ebay is your friend! We've got pretty much all of our appliances from their, new or as near as damn it, and at a fraction of the 'proper' costs.

Units, we've gone bog standard carcases from B&Q, the expense is the doors, which we're having to buy a few a month (each pay day essentially), afraid we've not found a cheaper way of doing that one :-(

Good luck, and once again ,great to see you, so to speak!
The units are pretty bod standard no matter how expensive the kitchen so you're best off doing what B00 is doing.

What kind of condition are the floors/walls in?

It's probably best to phone about to get quotes for fitting. I wouldn't get fitting done by someone like B&Q.
My friend did her kitchen with Ikea, she loved their movable units and got everthing from there.
Ikea units are relatively cheap, and really good quality, but I think Boobies has the right idea. Standard carcases, then doors from somewhere else (probably Ebay Shops.)

Ebay shops for the appliances as well. Go for simple, plain tiles or the budget will be shot. Also, with a tight budget, try and do without all the silly cornice/plinth things if possible. They mark the prices well up. I often do painted kitchens, so I tend to make a lot of the trim up from standard timber. That may not be to your liking though.

I've just been fitting a Homebase kitchen. Very good, but crazy prices for fiddly bits such as monster self-closing pan drawers. I think this 2-drawer unit alone was over £700. With a standard carcase and drawer packs from someone like Screwfix, you could save a lot.

Just to give you an idea on fitting .... this kitchen, including tiling, will be around £1700. Homebase wanted over £3000.
Question Author
BOO and ummmm!!! Two names I remember well. How are you both?

Yes I am still alive and well, BOO. I have been living, working and playing. :o) But gone are the days when I can while away my time on Answerbank. :o(

Thanks for the kitchen tips. It seems the way to save money is not to buy under one roof. I have been Googling like crazy and come up with the likes of DIY-kitchens.com for my units (including doors). I don’t think B&Q are very competitive, so I’m looking at trade options which are viable for the public. Appliances are going to be costly, but like you say, maybe eBay is the solution. It’s going to be really tight to keep this under budget though.

Is it just me or are fitted kitchens a rip-off?
Question Author
Thank you, Builder. That’s a good steer on fitting costs. How long does it usually take to fit the kitchen? (assuming all the parts are already delivered). And does a kitchen fitter usually have the qualifications to fit all the appliances too? i.e. It would be good to know just how many professional trandesmen I need for the actual fitting.

A couple of other queries:

Worktops: when buying these cut to size/shape, does the company do this for free or charge extra? I am looking to have one free-standing length of base units at half depth (i.e. buying wall units with legs to use as base units) with a round breakfast bar at the end. This is a bespoke design which would need a 3000mm work surface cut to shape. It would be great if I could get a free cutting service somewhere! :o)

Extractor Hood: I’ve recently been told that I need to leave a 50mm gap between the sides of the extractor hood/walls units if using a gas hob. Why is this? And is it mandatory? My plan has the wall units sitting flush against the extractor hood at present (assuming all hoods are 600mm wide).
I just wanted to say 'ola' to Champers.

I have absolultely nothing useful to add to this thread. I'm not allowed in the kitchen really :-/
If all the sockets and switches are staying where they are, no electrician is needed. If there are any alterations, then, technically, you'll need one who's certified to carry out the work and sign it off himself (because it's in a kitchen.)

If you have a gas cooker ................ you won't need a "Gas-Safe" plumber as long as there's a bayonet fitting on the appliance. (Simple plug-in.)

Extractors should be minimum 650mm above the pan rests. It's usual to go for at least 750mm to avoid head-banging.
I've never come across any "width" requirement for an extractor. They are often set under a bridging unit of the same width. (eg ... 600mm wide extractor over 600mm wide cooker.)

One thing I always do... jack the legs of the cooker up (or sit it on some timber) to raise the pan rests around 10-12mm above the worktop level if it's a gas cooker.
Flames under a pan tends to fan out, and can burn adjacent worktops.

You may need a tiler if the kitchen guy doesn't do it himself.

Also, a plumber for undersink connections if the fitter isn't confident.

Allow 2 weeks for the whole job. Maybe less depending on how many trades have to be co-ordinated.

Worktops are usually sold as a blank. The fitter will do all the cutting and jointing. You'll likely pay rather a lot to have them supplied cut to shape/size.............. if there is anyone that is, which I doubt.

I have your "wall units on the floor" idea in my own house. They're the same height as the floor units. Buy legs from Screwfix, or maybe B&Q.
Which? did a very good report on this subject (March 13)- well worth looking at. They gave top marks to Ikea and John Lewis (Ikea obviously cheaper) and bottom of the heap was B&Q on all counts.
Question Author
Thank you. This has really given me some things to think about.

And hello China Doll! Long time no speak!! xxx :o)
I'm seriously freaked out by your pic. I want to cry. :o{
Ikea units are made from 18mm thick chipboard. Elsewhere, 16mm chipboard is often used. That makes Ikea's sturdier.
Question Author
IKEA is not an option because 1) they don't do 300mm wide units, and 2) you have to pay extra for drawer inserts which inevitably bumps up the price. I have heard great things about IKEA kitchen units but unfortunately they're not for my project. :o(

But thanks to everyone for your feedback (and the hellos!). It has definitely helped.

x

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