What is Calvados

A.� It is the apple brandy of Normandy in France and it's very much the region's pride and joy. The first record of Calvados production was in 1533, although it probably started much earlier.

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Q.� How is it made

A.� Being in France, it's inevitable that Calvados has its own appellation rules, which govern permitted varities, nature of distillation and ageing. Over 40 varieties of apple and pear are allowed to be used, and these are further divided into different classifications: sweet, bitter, bitter-sweet and acid. The apples are picked (no fallen apples are allowed) and each distiller will have his or her own recipe of how to combine and blend the juices of different varieties to make the wash. Some will include pears to give a bit of acidity. Ageing usually takes place in oak barrels of large vats, and the maturing period can be as long as 40 years.

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Q.� What's the really special stuff

A.� Most Calvados will hit the market as a 3-star (a minimum of two-years-old), but there are a number of other age descriptions. To qualify as Vieux/Reserve, the Calvados has to be three-years-old, and VSOP/Vieux reserve a year older. Older brands, often called Hors d'Age or Age Inconnu, are just that - old. There are also some smaller producers who release age-designated brands, and some vitanges onto the market.

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Q.� Is Calvados made anywhere but France

A.� Apple brandy, or applejack, actually predates rum as America's first native spirit. Initially it was made by leaving cider outside to freeze and it was a very strong liquor. These days, the US produces brands such as Laird's� or Yukon Jack, which are made by double distillation. In England, the flag for apple brandy has been flown by Somerset Royal for more years.

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By Katharine MacColl