Do mulberries still exist

A.� Mulberries are rarely found today; especially not on supermarket shelves. Many mulberry trees have been chopped down, but there are a few still to be found in ancient gardens and they date to the reign of James 1 (1603-25) when, by royal edict, seeds were given to landowners in the hope that the leaves would generate food for silk worms. It may have been introduced to Britain in Roman times. and they were once a childhood staple, hence the nursery rhyme,"Here we go round the mulberry bush." Horace was an enthusiast, and Roman soldiers were said to march on their stomachs. Chalemagne had large quantities grown on his farms.

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Q.� What do they taste like

A. Traditionally found in late summer, they are juicier and tastier than strawberries and more fragrant than raspberries. Mulberries were frequently used for making jam. They are a rich addition to fruit salad and go well with richer dishes such as venison and offal.

In some parts of the world, the bark of the mulberry tree is used as a laxative and diuretic. Mulberry tress grow wild in Asia and eastern Europe.

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Q.� Where can you find mulberry bushes today

A.� There is one at Syon House, west London, which is thought to have been around since the mid-16th century and another in Cambridge, which may have been planted by Milton (1608-74).� There is also one in a walled ecclestiastical garden in Canterbury, and another at the provost's garden in Trinity College, DUbin. Four acres near Westminster were given over to a mulberry garden, the last trace of which may be the single mulberry tree in the grounds of Buckingham Palace.

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Q.� Should you find mulberries how would you make jam

A.� Mulberries should be firm, under-ripe or only just ripe and fresh. Over-ripe fruit, lacking in acid or pectin, never makes satisfactory jam as it will not set properly. Use a good quality jam pan and add the sugar only when the fruit is well cooked and broken down, then boil the jam rapidly until setting point is reached.

You will need:

1.4kg (3lb mulberries)

1.4kg (3lb) granulated sugar

15g (1/2 oz) butter

Put the mulberries in a large saucepan and crush firmly with the back of a wooden spoon. Simmer gently for five minutes. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Bring to the boil. Boil briskly for 5-7 minutes or until setting point is reached. Take pan off heat and stir in butter to disperse any scum. Pot and cover.

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By Katharine MacColl