I think my objection to many gastro pubs is that so many of them write a good menu but then fail to deliver.
I'm not inclined to pay good money for something that I could have cooked better myself.
Which is why I enjoy restaurants such as Mother India where I can get lots of different dishes which is a style of eating I enjoy but not really viable for just two of us. Similarly a beautifully thin pizza baked in a wood stove is a thing of joy for me.