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Roof Tile And A Half Or What
Hi All and builder,
Problem. All tiles on roof, except the end row, as unfortunately the wall of the building is not square, so we have a 4" difference from top to bottom over the 3 mtrs run, which is 10 tiles. Our idea is to get some tiles and half, fit them, mark the underneaths with a pencil at 2" overhang, cut them, fit the cement soffit undercloak and cement it in?? may be a bodge but no one will see it as its between two houses and the back garden looks over fields. or is there any other answer? next question is: the reclaimed roof tiles have three different makers names on, some are are: sandtoft. some coxhil.and some leighton. . these look like a redland 49, but are not quite the same size, mine are : 375 x 225. any idea which tile and a half would do the job?
thanks again,
annie.
Problem. All tiles on roof, except the end row, as unfortunately the wall of the building is not square, so we have a 4" difference from top to bottom over the 3 mtrs run, which is 10 tiles. Our idea is to get some tiles and half, fit them, mark the underneaths with a pencil at 2" overhang, cut them, fit the cement soffit undercloak and cement it in?? may be a bodge but no one will see it as its between two houses and the back garden looks over fields. or is there any other answer? next question is: the reclaimed roof tiles have three different makers names on, some are are: sandtoft. some coxhil.and some leighton. . these look like a redland 49, but are not quite the same size, mine are : 375 x 225. any idea which tile and a half would do the job?
thanks again,
annie.
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Oh Annie ........... trust you to come up with this ;o)
Except in special (designed) circumstances, it's never good to cut verges at an angle. Main reason depends on which is the longer dimension... top or bottom?
If longer at the top, then cutting to an angle will result in water running off the verges and dripping freely, rather than running down the tiles into the gutter. Discolouration/staining/possible damp getting into the building.
If longer at the bottom............ then, logically, all water will end up in the gutter. That would work, although be a tad unsightly.
Which do you have?
OMG .............. mixing tiles? Another "Black Art" ;o)
I've done this a lot with terra cotta "Double Romans" etc etc. So many variations. The trick........ usually ........... is to always use the same brand in a vertical section. ie .......... if you have 50 tiles of Type A, then lay your 10 courses of 5 tiles wide. Then the same with the next type etc. That way, your verge can be any of the types you chose to use. Logically then..... the "tile and a halves" will fit that last section.
Now you're going to tell me you've scattered them all over the roof :o)
Except in special (designed) circumstances, it's never good to cut verges at an angle. Main reason depends on which is the longer dimension... top or bottom?
If longer at the top, then cutting to an angle will result in water running off the verges and dripping freely, rather than running down the tiles into the gutter. Discolouration/staining/possible damp getting into the building.
If longer at the bottom............ then, logically, all water will end up in the gutter. That would work, although be a tad unsightly.
Which do you have?
OMG .............. mixing tiles? Another "Black Art" ;o)
I've done this a lot with terra cotta "Double Romans" etc etc. So many variations. The trick........ usually ........... is to always use the same brand in a vertical section. ie .......... if you have 50 tiles of Type A, then lay your 10 courses of 5 tiles wide. Then the same with the next type etc. That way, your verge can be any of the types you chose to use. Logically then..... the "tile and a halves" will fit that last section.
Now you're going to tell me you've scattered them all over the roof :o)
Hi The builder
you are correct on all counts!! Just had a thought though, I could build a tapered facia and soffit box, just had a look at next doors roof, they have one
( not tapered of course ) then we could use full tiles, plus as we are going to box in the lower part of the soil pipe which is level with the upper part of the roof it might just blend in, or might not, but its an option??
thanks,
annie.
you are correct on all counts!! Just had a thought though, I could build a tapered facia and soffit box, just had a look at next doors roof, they have one
( not tapered of course ) then we could use full tiles, plus as we are going to box in the lower part of the soil pipe which is level with the upper part of the roof it might just blend in, or might not, but its an option??
thanks,
annie.
Always better to keep the roof "square" Annie, and let the walls go wherever they like.
Often a good idea is to fit an extra rafter "outside" of the wall. This could carry an extended verge. The verge could then be boxed with a barge board and a soffit as per the front fascia/soffit.
You can then cut your verge tiles (whole tile or tile & a half) in a simple straight line, and pug the end with sand & cement. If that makes sense :o)
Often a good idea is to fit an extra rafter "outside" of the wall. This could carry an extended verge. The verge could then be boxed with a barge board and a soffit as per the front fascia/soffit.
You can then cut your verge tiles (whole tile or tile & a half) in a simple straight line, and pug the end with sand & cement. If that makes sense :o)
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