ChatterBank4 mins ago
Dodgy Potterton boiler?
Can anyone identify the likely problem from my description, or suggest further simple tests I can do to narrow down the likely suspect component.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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I'm not an expert by any means, but we have a potterton boiler which used to do the same thing, and our nice Gasman fixed it (twice!).
It doesn't sound like the same boiler as yours - our reset button is read and at the top, but this might help.
First, he changed the ignition lead, saying that the original ones weren't insulated properly and the spark often arced out before lighting the gas.
Then, he changed the PCB. Sorry can't remember why, but he said it was a common fault, andit did the trick.
Hope this helps!!
you say the fan is working correctly and the ignition is sparking but not igniting the main burner, is the pilot light blocked?
Here are a few simple checks first,make sure the hot water&heating controls on your timer are set to continiuos turn on the room stat to on, any change?
turn on the control thermostat to 3 or above,any change?
Do you have a voltmeter,check and see if you have any voltage on test points T2-T3 no?replace electronic control, check also the 1amp fuse on the pcb,the electronic control is the box sitting on a pcb.
check and see if there is any voltage on T2-T4 no?check pressure switch by sucking on or blowing on the plastic tube that goes too the fan and listen and hear any clicking as the switch goes on and off .
the other control is the gas valve which might have to be replaced,best left to a corgi fitter who will have to do a gas check
Is your boiler a suprima 30/40/50? My boiler is doing exactly the same thing as yours, In13b.
Am I right in guessing the PCB is the circuit board? If so I had this replaced by Potterton 2 years ago at the cost nearly �200!! Yes it did solve the problem but unfortunately I am having problems again.
Can't be the same thing again can it?
Can anyone help?! Thanks
moved house recently and had trouble with my boiler (suprima) after had one gas man out to fumble his way through to try and fix it. I spoke to next door and apparently the full street has had bother with the boilers PCB being at fault every time. i bought new pcb they apparently come modified with new wiring now, fitted it my self ( very easy for a keen diy person) and have had no more problems go for the circuit board ( pcb) down side the new type card cost me �200 supply only
geebit, its a profile 50e. I am still convinced it is the pcb as I can watch small sparks underneath at solder points on it when the pilot is struggling to light. If the boiler doesn't fire, I have found that waggling wires attached to the PCB will generally cause it to light the pilot and all is OK for a day or 2.
A problem for me I think is that even if I source a replacement PCB, I will need a CORGI person to fit it as the ignition lead that comes off the PCB feeds through a rubber grommet into the main part of the boiler which is a front panel off job and something I assume I shoudn't touch.
Anyone out there care to confirm that front panel off = CORGI??
Thanks to all who have taken time to respond with advice.