1980's Electric "Wet System" Central Heating Boiler

[countrykid]

Sorry this is a long question. The 1980's 4 bed house we are buying still has the original electric "wet system" boiler. It is floor standing and is about 22" wide and at least 4 feet tall. It does not supply any hot water, this comes from immersions heaters, so it only supplys heating via conventional water filled radiators.
I asked the vendor for copies of utility bills to get an idea of running costs. They are paying £106.00 for electric and £18 for gas (a hob is all that uses gas). The house has 2 adults and a small child, so electric usage seems high, and most likely due to hot water coming via the immersion heater/s.
I know the price of gas is no longer cheaper than electric, but if the sale goes through, I am inclined to replace the boiler with a gas combi (which I have in my current house - hot water on demand etc, rather than heating up an entire tank full using electric.
The main question relates to the rules about where a gas boiler can be fitted. The electric boiler is in the kitchen against an outside wall and next to gas supply (the hob). The airing cupboard with hot/cold water tanks is upsatirs, almost immediately above it. If the gas boiler (wall mounted) went in the same place as the electric one, it would obviousley need to vent to the outside, and this I think is where I may have a problem. The area that it would vent into is a carport, forming part of the house itself with a bedroom above. One end of the car port is open exept for some metal gates, but allowing plenty of fresh air etc to enter, but the other end is closed as it leads to a separate garage with a corrugated roof joining the garage and carport. There is a door to the garden, which if removed would allow fresh air in, and create a through draft. Does anyone have any advice about the rules for venting a gas boiler into this type of space? Thank you

[The Builder]

Have a look here, Kid...............

http://www.communitie...ilding/pdf/143945.pdf

The regulations aren't too onerous at all. Mostly small measurements (300mm, 600mm) from most important features (openings, canopies etc).
Most important for you I guess, is that the outlet must be a minimum of 1200mm (4') from a door into the building.

As far as I know, you don't need a through draft as long as the terminal is outdoors to receive its combustion air.

When you get your quotes, the Heating Engineer will go through it all with you. There's usually a way somewhere :o)

[countrykid]

Thanks The Builder for your reply. Between checking for any answers to my question on answerbank, I did a google search on Flue Locations, when i came across this
http://www.idhee.org.uk/ExceptionsGuide.pdf

In this document it states that a flue cannot be sited under a carport, but in the info from your link, it seems to suggest it might be possible, so I'm a bit confused. Could your link be referring to non-condensing boilers? I've been told that other than in extreme cases, a condensing boiler has to be fitted. I am thinking of asking the vendor to allow me to get an installer to inspect and advise on the options/costs and am happy to pay for this estimate. I can then renegotiate on the house price if need be as the cost could be high I guess, and if the radiators are also as old as the boiler, they would need changing too.
Thanks again

[The Builder]

Well .......... that is confusing. You download a document from a Govt. office, and we're still confused. :o(

OK ............ quotes needed. Yes, arrange for the Heating Engineer to survey & quote. That'll get to the bottom of it.
Good luck :o)

[johnk]

The location seems fine to me but whoever does the work will be the best judge.

[AlBags]

Part J or Regs says you can. Fanned flues make easier too.
Get it surveyed.