Venice uncovered

Answerbank regular, aong,asked what the nightlife was like in Venice, here's the lowdown and a few other interesting facts you didn't know...

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Q.� What's Venice really like

A.� All the photographs you've seen of the Palazzo Ducale, of the Basilica di San Marco, of the palaces along the Canal Grande, they've simply been recording the extraordinary truth. But the bad things are true too - it is deluged with tourists, the annual influx exceeding Venice's population two-hundred fold. But it boasts an urban landscape so rich that you can't walk for a minute without coming across something that's worth a stop.

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Q.�Is it as expensive as everyone says

A. There's no getting away from the fact that Venice is expensive. The price of a good meal almost anywhere else in Italy will get you a lousy one in Venice, and its hoteliers make the most of a situation where demand will always far outstrip supply. Having said that, Venice has plenty of celebrated markets apart from the Rialto, there are some inexpensive eating places, and you can, with planning, find a bed without spending a fortune.

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Q. Is it all about tourism in that area

A.� Tourism is far fron being the only strand to the economy of the area, the Veneto - it has Italy's most productive vineyards, and at Marghere, just over the lagoon from Venice, it has the largest industrial complex in the country. Tourism is important though. After Venice, the Veneto has Verona and Padua which have magnificent masterpieces by Giotto, Donatello and Mantegna.

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Q. How do you get there

A.�Flights to Venice arrive at either Treviso airport, 30kms from Venice, or at the city's Marco Polo airport, on the edge of the lagoon. Buses run to Treviso train station, and there are regular services to Venice. Coaches and expensive water taxis link Marco Polo to the city centre but the cheapest option is the ACTV bus which runs hourly and costs around L900. All road traffic comes into the city at Piazzale Roma, at the head of the Canal Grande. Two all-year vaporetta� (water bus) services run between the Piazzlae and the San Marco area.

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Q. What's worth seeing

A.� The monuments which draw the biggest crowds are the Basilica di San Marco - the mausoleum to the city's patron saint - and the Palazzo Ducale - the home of the doge and all governing council. Two Venetial institutions known as Scuole have outstanding examples of Renaissance art - the Scuola di San Rocco, and the Scuola di San Giorgio� degli Schiavoni. Many of the city's treasures are still in the buildings for which they are created, although several have been moved to city museums. Don't miss the Academia, an assembly of Venetian paintings that consist of nothing but masterpieces.

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Q.� With all the canals, how do you get about

A.� A water bus can be the quickest way of getting between two points, though in some cases it would be quicker to walk, a canal trip can be very pleasant. There are two types of boat: the vaporetti, used on the Canal Grande stopping service, and the motoscafi, smaller vessels on speedier routes. Tickets are available from most landing stages and shops displaying the ACRV sign.

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Q. What about gondolas

A.� The gondola is no longer a form of transport but rather an adjunct of the tourist industry. To hire one costs L70,000 an hour for up to five passengers.

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Q.� What about nice things to eat

A.� They say only the wealthy eat well but some good-value restuarant do exist, Fish and seafood dominate menus. Prawns, squid and octopus are typical Venetian Antipasti, as are Murano crabs and sarde in saor (marinated sardines). Dishes like eel cooked in Marsala wine are popular, but the quintessential Venetian dish is risotto, made with rice grown in the Po Valley.

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Q.� And what about nightlife finally

A.� Except when the Carnevale is in full swing, Venice after dark can be pretty moribund. But the city's calendar of events can be impressive, though it is aimed at high culture. Music in Venice usually means classical music - rock bands usually go nearer that Padua. The Carnevale takes place during the 10 days leading up to Lent, finishing on Shrove Tuesday with a masked ball for the glitterati.

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By Katharine MacColl