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Laquer Or Varnish ?
9 Answers
Sapele mahogany for cast iron bench ends - Lacquer them or use a varnish on the to keep the weather proof ?
Answers
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Just to be awkward ............
13:23 Mon 24th Jun 2019
We have such a bench in which I wanted to maintain the natural wood finish after replacing the original wood which was rotten. Having observed how polyurethane varnish needs to be replaced every few years on a vertical oak surface (door) nearby, I decided it would be even shorter intervals in the case of near horizontal surfaces. I was advised to use a water based clear varnish, not least because it "breathes". Quite apart from the lousy finish, it was only two years until it had cracked and let in moisture to the point that the wood was discolouring. I truly dislike forever stripping and re-coating with anything, polyurethane or anything at all.
Elsewhere (outside the UK) I have come across a two part/component varnish which I have observed outlasts polyurethane by approximately twofold or more (so far). On the other hand, (in the UK) we have a small balcony which has a wooden floor. When I replaced it I used what I believe was an acrylic coating, water based. It went on very nicely and dried in a good, smooth finish - it has lasted more or less without fault perhaps twenty years by now. I applied either two or three coats. The big drawback is that it has a pigment in it, that ghastly red tint which in the UK passes for hardwood shade ("mahogany" or something, or just maybe "red pine") - but it is/was clearly a brilliant material. Don't ask me what the label said (manufacturer's name, type, shade, etc.), in any case it is probably no longer available.
If you want durability and you can find something along those lines I would advise you to try it, forget varnishes of any type - I don't think it was called a varnish of any type, more like "protective coat" of some sort. The pity is that no clear version was available, at least as I remember it. Alternatively you can use a neutral wood oil but that will need frequent re-coating, probably at least annually.
Elsewhere (outside the UK) I have come across a two part/component varnish which I have observed outlasts polyurethane by approximately twofold or more (so far). On the other hand, (in the UK) we have a small balcony which has a wooden floor. When I replaced it I used what I believe was an acrylic coating, water based. It went on very nicely and dried in a good, smooth finish - it has lasted more or less without fault perhaps twenty years by now. I applied either two or three coats. The big drawback is that it has a pigment in it, that ghastly red tint which in the UK passes for hardwood shade ("mahogany" or something, or just maybe "red pine") - but it is/was clearly a brilliant material. Don't ask me what the label said (manufacturer's name, type, shade, etc.), in any case it is probably no longer available.
If you want durability and you can find something along those lines I would advise you to try it, forget varnishes of any type - I don't think it was called a varnish of any type, more like "protective coat" of some sort. The pity is that no clear version was available, at least as I remember it. Alternatively you can use a neutral wood oil but that will need frequent re-coating, probably at least annually.
O_G, The stuff I saw used abroad was sold as a varnish but I can't recall any detail, just saw it mixed and applied - still there and looking good the last time I visited. It was in two tins totalling not much more than 1.5 litres if that, bore no resemblance on the face of it to the Rustins stuff which is described as a plastic coat - although the two might in fact have some similarity except that the tins I remember seeing specifically stated indoor or outdoor, Rustins says indoor. Having just trimmed pre-existing cork tiling which had an astonishingly tough, elastic top surface (certainly a plastic of some type) I wonder if Rustins might be similar to that (note to self in case a future need to explore this arises).
I have used yacht varnish on my garden seats, depending which one you use many coats can be applied.
http://
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I prefer this one
https:/
Used it on a couple of wooden garden furniture items. Pays to be patient and use at least 4 coats. Do not repaint immediately after touch dry, leave for at least 12 hrs. With a very light rub down with flour grade glasspaper between coats. 1st coat can be 'thinned' to assist penetration.
https:/
Used it on a couple of wooden garden furniture items. Pays to be patient and use at least 4 coats. Do not repaint immediately after touch dry, leave for at least 12 hrs. With a very light rub down with flour grade glasspaper between coats. 1st coat can be 'thinned' to assist penetration.
Just to be awkward ................
Teak oil
https:/
I understand what the other posters advise. Good products.
I went off using most forms of coatings some time ago though.
I may have been unlucky, but most of these tend to crack and come off eventually.
Good old Teak Oil, applied with an old rag, then re-applied once a year with the same rag, just when it needs a clean.
Teak oil
https:/
I understand what the other posters advise. Good products.
I went off using most forms of coatings some time ago though.
I may have been unlucky, but most of these tend to crack and come off eventually.
Good old Teak Oil, applied with an old rag, then re-applied once a year with the same rag, just when it needs a clean.
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