Surfing Giant Waves.

[sandyRoe]

How do the surfers survive when the wave eventually crashes on the beach?
http://video.uk.msn.com/watch/video/daredevil-surfer-rides-giant-wave-in-portugal/2uxbmx51j

[jomifl]

Do they?

[emmie]

not sure what you mean, they ride the waves until coming into the shore,
the wave has rather dissipated by that stage.

[emmie]

mind you that big a wave will cause you a headache if you hit the deck hard.

[sandyRoe]

I'd thought that when the waves reached the shore there be a mass of foam, undercurrents, danger.

[cupid04]

When my daughter was little we were on holiday in Cornwall and I wanted to get a photo of her on her surfboard. It didn't come out the first time so I asked her to go back into the water on her surfboard so I could re-take the photograph. She did as I said and a big wave knocked her off the surfboard and she grazed all her tummy on some shingle. She's never let me forget what a cruel mother I am!

[murraymints]

sandy..I was dragged under and out at that very same beach some years ago..it was really scary..my ex managed to grab me and pull me out..had I been on my own it may have been..no more minty !!

[rockyracoon]

What I want to know is, how do they measure the height of the waves to prove a world record?