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Moving Radiators

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aneray | 22:18 Tue 01st Sep 2009 | DIY
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I am planning to move a radiator in my sons bedroom and have a few short questions to ask



When moved can I add an inline open shut valve to make it easier for painting behind in the future

Can I use compression joints instead of soldering

Is it true that radiators should be located below the bedroom window

Is a 740mm radiator too small for a (box room) bedroom of about 10 x 8

Thanks Neil

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Q1: Answer as above.
Q2: Yes, they are just a lot more expensive - which is why plumbers don't generally use them.
Q3: No, they are often just more convenient there because one doesn't put anything else in front of a window. Radiators use up wall space so think about what other furniture needs to go in the room and where.
Q4: Impossible to say because it depends entirely on the levels of insulation in your loftspace above and the walls. Best to stick to a similar size, however a double rad (with fins between) gives out about 50% more heat than a single rad of the same footprint - so if the existing rad is a single you may be able to put a double in of a smaller footprint for the same effect.
If you've never removed a radiator before do it in this order, I promise you it's the best way to limit the amount of water spilt;
1. Turn off both valves and place towels under them to catch drips.
2. Get a suitable container (I use an old 2L milk carton with the top on and a hole cut in the other end big enough to fit the radiator inlet into, but a washing up bowl is ok).
3. Slacken the nut. A few drips will come out but that's ok because you have a towel there to catch them.
4. Keep slackening the nut until it's ready to separate from the valve.
5. Get ready to put your dish or container into position; then quickly move the valve and position your dish.
6. Water will start to trickle out. NOW you can open up the bleed valve and control the flow of water (more open lets more air in and empties the rad quicker).
7. If your dish is getting full close the bleed key (doesn't have to be tight) and push the valve back into place while you empty your dish (have a bucket ready). Don't wait until your dish is really full because this makes it more difficult to move quickly.
8. Continue until all the water seems to be out. The more water you empty, the faster you can let it flow. I always lift the rad up at the other end to empty as much as possible.There is usually a bit of play in the pipe, or you can wait until you undo the other valve and then raise it slightly.
9. Radiators can be heavy, so get help if necessary. Lift the rad off and turn it upside down immediately so the valves can't drip the black sludge as you take it out of the way.
10. If the valves are thermostatic valves I'm sure you need to cap these temporarily while the rad is off.
You can fix isolation valves in-line but you already have a valve either side of the radiator so why fit them??
You don't HAVE to fix rads below a window, its only a conventional way to fit them.I know someone else will come on and go on about convection currents but really its up to you.
Sizing radiators depend on size of room, size of windows ( are the windows double glazed or not?) are the wall insulated etc etc.....
Go to City plumbing website and you will find an easy to use calculator

Good luck
Nowt wrong with compression joints. Just not as neat as a solder joint.

Hope that helps.
hi, you do not have to position a radiator under a window but it is considered best practice as that is the coldest part of the room, the idea is the draft from the window will then drift the heat to the other parts of the room. You will find that on a lot of installations the rads are back to back on walls rather than under windows and this is because it saves the installers a lot of time and money (less pipe and less lifting floorboards)

we do use compression joints on some radiator repositions but only if we cannot drain the system properly or don't have time to drain down as copper pipe with water in it will not solder properly as you cannot get the heat into it.

and draining rads is a real pain in the arse, you can actually get rad valves that incorporate a drain plug to make it easy but there expensive so no-one uses them. we do it exactly the same way gazza says and just pray the customers carpet doesn't get gunged ! you can buy a neat little rad draining kit from b and q if ur worried, is like a little plastic ramp that fits around the valve and directs the water into the container.
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