Is fougasse the new ciabatta

A.� Fougasse is a rich-flavoured flattish bread, which is identifiable by four finger-like slashes across its centre. The fougasse is the Provencal version of focaccia. Both names derive from the Latin word focus, meaning hearth - they were originally cooked on the floor of the oven when it was still too hot for conventional loaves.

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Like foaccia, fougasse is a snack in itself and is the latest trend at lunchtimes. Many bakeries sell handmade olive, bacon, onion or even anchovy versions which are eaten on their own.

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Q.� Where can you buy traditional handmade breads like fougasse

A.� One of the best real bread shops is in London. The Poilane, favoured by de Niro, Bacall and Deneuve, bakes its bread in wood-fired stoves in Belgravia and is the only Poilane outlet outside Paris. The loaves cost around �6 and weigh the best part of 2kg. Another French newcomer on the traditional bread scene is the Paul bakery in London's Covent Garden. It is the first English branch of a chain with 250 outlets in France.

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Outside London, two-thirds of Sainsbury's 300 stores now stock speciality breads. The Village Bakery in Cumbria produces 17 breads, all baked in a wood-fired oven, including a natural leaven campagne for �1.85 and a Russian sourdough loaf. Log onto www.village-bakery.com for mail order. The tea shop chain, Betty's, which has branches across the north of England, also bakes and sells traditional breads.

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Q.� How easy is it to make traditional bread - but not the white stuff. Something a little more interesting perhaps

A.� Baking bread at home is very simple. Try this Cornmeal and Mixed Seed bread, which is quick and easy and offers lots of varying textures.

You will need:

5 oz (150g) Polenta

6 oz (175g) strong white bread flour

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1oz sunflower seeds

1oz pumpkin seeds

1oz sunflower seeds

1oz poppy seeds

1oz pinhead otameal

1 rounded teaspoon golden caster sugar

1 large egg

10fl oz (275ml) buttermilk

You will also need a 1lb loaf tin, lightly oiled.

Method: Begin by sifting the flour, salt and bicarbonate of soda together in a large bowl. Add the polenta, all the seeds, the oatmeal and caster sugar and give everything a good stir. Next whisk the egg and buttermilk together and add this to the bowl, slowly stirring with a wooden spoon until mixture forms a soft, slack dough.

Place the dough into loaf tin, sprinkle with a few extra poppy seeds and bake the bread in the middle of the oven, preheated to� GasMark5/375F/190C, for 50 to 60 minutes.

The loaf is cooked with after you've turned it out, it sounds hollow when you tap the underneath.

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By Katharine MacColl

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