Flooring

[karenmac60]

Quick question - I'm tiling a floor that has dodgy floorboards so obviously I need to put wood down first. Do I use hardboard, plywood or what? The plywood looks right, but it seems too thick since with the tiles on top it won't be giving my doors much clearance....

Thanks

[Mosaic]

Make sure all the floorboards are screwed down and not moving / squeaking. If any boards have warped into u-shapes plane them so they have a new flat surface. If you are using ceramic / stone floor tiles you need to bear in mind the additional thickness of the backing ply, adhesive bed,and the tile - it is likely that you will need to remove your doors and get an amount cut off the bottom. I would use exterior grade 4mm ply but some might recommend thicker for floor tiling. Also, I would screw the ply sheets to the floor rather than nailing as gradual flexing of the floor can make nail heads pop up, splitting your tiles.

[Frank97]

Not sure which wood is best but if your doors are a tight fit when you've finished just take them of the hinges and plain the bottoms slightly.

[Frank97]

Sorry plane not plain doh.

[Clanad]

Better yet, use the "backer board", made from cement. A little more effort to cut and lay (they have to be screwed down with special screws... one every 8 square inches) but will support your tiles forever. Probably half again as much cost than ply wood but a whole lot better for a good finished job...

You'll only need the 1/4 to 1/2 inch thickness if your sub floor is reasonably sound...

[The Builder]

This is something the Pros use Karen ........... doesn't usually need any ply/hardboard.........

http://www.floorheati...coupling-membrane.php

[karenmac60]

Builder, that stuff looks good but it's a bit out of my price range I'm afraid :)

It's all starting to look very complicated....

Thanks all :)

[AlBags]

Look ...

You have to decide how much 'spring' there is in the floor .. and the total spans involved. Chipboard panels will be springy .. solid timber is ok. Neither are likely to be OK on their own.
If the floor springs, the tile grouts (and sometimes the tiles) will crack soon enough. If normal boards, I would probably ply it, using C/S screws, then tile on top. This will obviously raise the level by as much as 18mm with tiles, so you will always have a thresh-hold/door/skirting problem.

[AlBags]

I'll put my money where my mouth is ..

10-12mm WBP Plywood screwed down at no more than 200mm centres.
Flexible cement-based .. or polymer adhesive.
Flexible wide-joint grout (or wide-joint with polymer added) after 24 hours.

That's a flat you're in tho, right? Has it not concrete floors?

[karenmac60]

Hi Al - some of that sounded a bit foreign to me ;) I'll get a translator and sort it out, thanks.
And no concrete floors, it's a 60s maisonette - all floorboards. x

[AlBags]

WBP = Water Boil Proof = Good quality and sealed/impregnated plywood sheets. These are also good for flat roof work (under felt) Local merchants.
Polymer additives just make things flexible : )

x

[AlBags]

(that same place you had a problem with freezing pipework last winter?)

[karenmac60]

Same flat but not same room :)

Thanks for the translation Al xx

[AlBags]

IC. Everywhere in that place, aren't you?! We'll have you in the shower yet (WaBoL) ;) xx

You ok? Bit quiet last week or so.

[karenmac60]

I'm fine and dandy Al, just completely buggered :) Getting used to working full time and too tired for t'internet most nights xxx

[AlBags]

ahhhh .. xxx

[AlBags]

(well we miss you .. well I do anyways)

[karenmac60]

Aaawww, you wee sweetheart :) xxx